Day two, Frankfort am Main

It was cool, partly cloudy day today here in Frankfort. After a nice breakfast here at the hotel we hopped onto the subway to meet our walking tour guide for an introduction to Frankfort.

I have to say we learned a lot. This city has been here for better than 2000 years, and due to its strategic location it has changed hands multiple times: first a Celtic people, then the Romans, then the Franks (thereby the name: the ford of the Franks. Catchy!), then various German city-states, then the French, then onto modern history. It being on, or near, navigable rivers made it into a trading city right from the start, but it also became an important center of finance and an important place politically, as St Bartholomew’s Church became the spot where Holy Roman Emperors were elected.

The church is a really fine looking building; we did not get to go inside since it is Sunday and they were holding Mass all day. We learned that very few buildings in the core of the city survived WW 2, but that this Catholic Church and a Protestant church did avoid bombing. This means that very few buildings in the downtown predate 1945. On the other hand, the locals had an empty canvas to rebuild their city.

Our tour guide took us to a remnant of the ancient city walls; adjacent to this was where the Jewish ghetto had been until about 1850. He was able to speak to the group about some of the ways Frankfort has chosen to remember the holocaust. Greg got a little emotional, which just is getting him ready to see Dachau later this week.

Later in the afternoon we met our travel group for the first time, did a little bit of sightseeing with them, then had dinner as a group. I think it’s going to be a great 12 days. We head towards Cologne tomorrow, with a short boat ride on the Rhine and then lunch in a castle. We’ll tell you all about it in our next chapter…

Lady Justice has been here for a very long time. You’ll note she is not blindfolded, but is staring straight at City Hall, maybe giving the bureaucrats the side-eye. The buildings in the background may look old, but they are not. They are replicas of buildings that predate WW2, but were built after.
St Bartholomew’s, home to multiple emperors
Stumbling stones like these are installed around Europe, meant to make you think about the victims of the Holocaust
In some ways you’d never think you’d left America
Here’s a bridge that survived the war that now is a place to note one’s eternal love on a lock. Our guide points out that this only works for just so long; the locks weigh down the bridge, so the city removes them every few years. Romantic love might not be quite so durable as we think.

One thought on “Day two, Frankfort am Main

  1. Gary Luhn

    Really enjoy reading your posts … Had to dig out some information about our great-great grandparents connection to the German/Prussian area. You probably have it all and maybe more, but I see Johan Adam Luhn was born in the Schnellmannshausin community (about 1/3 the distance between Frankfurt and Berlin) I think. He immigrated in May of 1854 to the port of New York. The document (I think Carl Luhn sent us a copy) is Johan’s renouncement of Frederic William IV – King of Prussia of which Johan was a subject and he intended to become a US citizen. Emil’s grand parents Albertine (Mueller) Polzen born Apr 16, 1837 in Scheifelbein, Germany and Richard Polzen born Jan 18, 1833 in Rutzenhagen, Prussia(not sure when they immigrated). Also not sure where these communities are … Prussia I think was in northern Germany and quite a bit in Poland. Anyway, really enjoying your posts and what a great trip! Hope your trip is all you want it to be and more. PS – you don’t need to write back … I’m sure you’re time is super filled up …

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